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We have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe. This moring, some snow got on the power window control panel when I had my door open. Later, when I was driving, my driver side window would go down on its own. Also, when I flick on the headlights, the same window goes down as if the headlight switch is the window switch, and I have to hold the window switch up to keep the window from going down.

 

Has this kind of thing happened to anyone else's car before? If I can, I'd rather just disable the power windows altogether since I won't really need to open any of them during the winter. 

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We have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe. This moring, some snow got on the power window control panel when I had my door open. Later, when I was driving, my driver side window would go down on its own. Also, when I flick on the headlights, the same window goes down as if the headlight switch is the window switch, and I have to hold the window switch up to keep the window from going down.

 

Has this kind of thing happened to anyone else's car before? If I can, I'd rather just disable the power windows altogether since I won't really need to open any of them during the winter. 

 

Pull the fuse first.  Then use a hair dryer on it.  Likely water in the electronics causing the switch to stay on.

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^But the fuses are usually in places that won't get wet, under the dash or under the hood with plastic covers that are clipped shut.

 

Tay: Have you had any similar electrical problems before, or is this the first time it's happened?

 

For disabling the power windows: You should be able to pull off the door panel and/or window control panel and disconnect the system by disconnecting a simple plug in the door. I'm sure you can find a youtube video/forum instructional to help you find the best way to pull off the panel. It's usually plastic tabs that pop off and pop back in. Can typically use a Spackle spatula or wide flat head screwdriver to pop it off. But try to find a diagram as to where the tabs are located so you don't beat up the panel (if you care about that kind of stuff).

 

You'll probably temporarily lose your lock buttons and the other stuff like side mirror movement on the driver door, or anything else on that panel, but atleast the windows won't unexpectedly start going down. Super weird about the headlights though, they should be completely unrelated.

 

Another reason I wouldn't buy a Hyundai.

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Your power windows should be on a discrete 40 amp fuse, the motors take up a good drain on the electrical power. They are not tied to the headlight switch, nor should be in any way. There is an electrical short in your wiring, that's the bad news. Try pulling the power window fuse and see if turning on the lights still sends the window down or up. If it doesn't then you are safe to drive without the fuse and use of the window. Inconvenient as hell but on a budget this is the Hillbilly fix.

 

If it does, or you hear some motor or relay in the door going on, you really need to get this to a qualified mechanic that specializes in wiring. Not your local tire guy or oil change guy that says he can do it, he can't and will replace unnecessary parts as the guess the cause and probably fry something. Repeat, your local handy guy, thinks he's a mechanic qualified in all things automotive will probably cause a car fire and has no license or insurance to cover it.

 

2003-hyundai-santa-fe-fuse-box-diagram-D

Edited by notti
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^But the fuses are usually in places that won't get wet, under the dash or under the hood with plastic covers that are clipped shut.

 

Tay: Have you had any similar electrical problems before, or is this the first time it's happened?

 

For disabling the power windows: You should be able to pull off the door panel and/or window control panel and disconnect the system by disconnecting a simple plug in the door. I'm sure you can find a youtube video/forum instructional to help you find the best way to pull off the panel. It's usually plastic tabs that pop off and pop back in. Can typically use a Spackle spatula or wide flat head screwdriver to pop it off. But try to find a diagram as to where the tabs are located so you don't beat up the panel (if you care about that kind of stuff).

 

You'll probably temporarily lose your lock buttons and the other stuff like side mirror movement on the driver door, or anything else on that panel, but atleast the windows won't unexpectedly start going down. Super weird about the headlights though, they should be completely unrelated.

 

Another reason I wouldn't buy a Hyundai.

 

I didn't say the fuse was wet, I said the switch was.  Removing the fuse stops power from going to the switch.

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Thanks guys. We've only had the car since October. The only other power issue we've noticed is that the passenger side windows won't open or close at all. I assumed that was just a burnt out fuse and have been too lazy to check it out.

 

Eric, thanks for that diagram. I'll go ahead and pull the fuse then see if it affects the headlights. If it doesn't, and headlights still work, I'll try blow drying the switch. There's a standard Phillips screw in the panel that when removed, should allow the panel to pop right off.

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I see you have some brutal weather there in Colorado.  A low temp of 6 degrees tonight? 

 

The above advice is good.  I would take it a step further since the headlights (and maybe other electrical systems) are involved and they run on separate fuses.  If you still have a short, that could cause a parasitic draw and leave you with a dead battery tomorrow morning.  You could pull a bunch of extra fuses to prevent that but it's not practical.  Instead, just pop the hood tonight and disconnect the negative (-) cable from the battery which is usually black.  All you need is a straight tip screwdriver and/or pliers or maybe a crescent wrench to loosen the battery terminal.  Then, tomorrow, simply reconnect it.  This ensures your battery won't be drained overnight.  Cold weather is really hard on batteries so even a relatively small parasitic draw can spell trouble. 

 

If you can't do that, park the car somewhere where it's easily accessible in case you need a jump start. 

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You would have to do it every night.  Might be careful doing it though, better to risk it IMO because it will likely reset all the electronics in the car (stereo, etc) and if they have anti-theft you would have to re-enter the code to activate them again.

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On second thought, I'd be inclined to unplug the battery only if the hair dryer method doesn't fix the problem.  That saves you the hassle of worrying which fuses need to be pulled, which could be more than one.

 

Try to get air flow on the switches from all angles possible.  Alternate between hot and cold air so do you don't overheat the wiring insulation. 

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